Women, on the other hand, may need multiple “fixes.” For example, eye shadow, eyebrow shape, foundation and blusher color, lipstick and shape of lips, earrings, necklaces, pins, scarves, hairstyle, shoes, garment style and colors.

Many of my clients are a size 16 and over, and I love to show them how they can have their dress size go completely unnoticed. Another easy “fix” is when women discover after an image session that they have items in their wardrobe that are in the wrong color or the wrong style. Putting the “Rule of Three” into action can solve both problems.

Imagine, for example, that you have a black suit jacket in your closet in the classic Eisenhower style. This is a shortcropped style with a rather boxy shape, so it has no chance of making a woman’s figure look better. This jacket also has a wide band at the bottom that is guaranteed to point the eye to the hip area and make it look wider. The challenge? To get the eye to stay focused on the face and not be tempted to turn the gaze downward to the unflattering jacket.

As black is a severe color, the first thing to do is “defeat” the black. This is artist terminology for putting black in its place, so that it is not noticed as much. In other words, you wear the black instead of it wearing you.

The most effective way to defeat black is by adding fuchsia lipstick, as pink always diminishes the severity of black. It is much like lighting a candle in a dark room and the darkness vanishes. A black jacket in a great style may not look severe, but one in a masculine style will. Orange-family makeup colors, on the other hand, will make the severity of black appear more pronounced; and interestingly, most women favor makeup colors in the peach (orange) family and steer clear of pink tones.

Finish off your makeup with a soft orchid-pink blusher and a foundation that has subtle pink undertones. Next, add dynamic earrings to take the black from severe to a big-city dynamic look. Chunky hoops are great for defeating black, but a bold brooch or necklace can also serve the same purpose.

Lastly, make certain you have a stylish and flattering hairstyle. Dated or frumpy-looking hair will make black look even more severe.

The same principles apply when you are a plus size and want to look like a size 12 or 14. In this case, the first thing to do is get rid of any oversized or billowy garments that may cover figure flaws but, at the same time, shout “billowy figure.” You will be seen as thin as the smallest part that is visible, and that will be your legs most often.

So, you want to start with a pair of straight-legged black pants. If they fit you in the waist and tummy, they will probably be billowy below the thighs. Take as much in as possible from the inner seam, and then start at the thighs and have a straight line from there down to the bottom of the pants.

Top your “slim” pants with a greatfitting tunic in solid black, as one solid color from head to toe creates a “sweeping” effect and automatically makes you look taller and thinner. Use color with jewelry, handbags and other accessories.

To create the “Rule of Three” look, follow the steps above for makeup, hair, and accessories, and no one will ever notice or care what size you are. They will be drawn irresistibly to your face and their gaze will rest there.

For work, wear your pants with a simple scoop-neck black top, and then add a jacket in a great style and color to complete your dynamic new look. Best styles are those without collars or pockets. One-button or two-button jackets are also good choices because they visually create an hourglass figure. Another good style is one without buttons but with a built-in shape thanks to good tailoring. Resist those boring and too-long blazer jackets that are usually shapeless. You want to create an hourglass effect at the midriff and look elongated elsewhere.

Once you’ve mastered this look, you can move on to navy blue pants and top, or even red or white pants and top, and always topped by a great jacket to further camouflage figure flaws.

The “Rule of Three” works best with solid colors, flattering styles, really good professional makeup, fashion accessories and a great hairstyle. Needless to say, discovering the colors that flatter you the most is also a top priority. There are warm and cool versions of all colors, and it is important to be in the right shade of each color you wear.

To view the original article in Tidewater Women, please visit here

by Sandy Dumont, THE Image Architect © 2008
Originally published in Tidewater Women, January 2008